© 2006 Alyson Harrod

World War II was the dominant influence on the women’s fashion industry of the 1940’s. In many ways it determined not only the materials used in manufacturing women’s clothing, but also the clothing styles desired by American women and the way in which those clothes were marketed to the consumer.

THE EFFECT OF GOVERNMENT RATIONING

Propaganda poster promoting rationing, buying bonds, and more

In order to assure the fair distribution of the items that would continue to be made available to the civilian population, the government instituted a strict system of rationing. Each adult received a prescribed number of coupons that could be used to buy certain products during the year. After the supply of coupons ran out, no more goods could be purchased.

Nylon and rubber were only available for civilian use in very restricted quantities. Thus, nylon stockings disappeared from women’s legs (See Nylon Wars). Metal zippers, which had been prevalent in civilian clothing before the war, were replaced by the old style buttons of days gone by. Shelves that had once overflowed with fine wool sweaters and rubber products were now bare.

EXCEPTIONS TO THE RESTRICTIONS

• apparel for feminine wear made in the home and not for resale
• sale of apparel for feminine wear by a person who acquired the same for her own general use
• sale of second-hand apparel
• alterations to fit a specific individual consumer
• apparel for feminine wear for persons over 5’7, or of abnormal size or with physical deformities
• religious robes, historical costumes for theatrical productions
• bridal gowns, burial gowns
• U.S. military uniforms

Wanda Witkos models the "Safety Cap"

CONSERVATION CAMPAIGNS

In the First World War people voluntarily rationed their goods to be patriotic. In the Second World War people rationed their goods not only to be patriotic, but because they did not have a choice. America’s consumption themes switched from “support the troops and conserve” to “how to make do with all these government restrictions.”

In conjunction with the rationing of clothing, the government introduced its “Make do and Mend” campaign to encourage people to get as much wear as possible out of their existing clothes. The government handed out posters and information leaflets that gave advice on how to take care of and reuse old clothing. Evening classes were also set up to teach women how to mend and brighten their old clothing.

The government also advised consumers on how to maintain a well-dressed appearance while abiding by the new clothing restrictions with slogans such as “More Care, Less Tear “and “More Mending, Less Spending.”

A NEW WAY OF MARKETING: BY CELEBRITY

Magazines overflowed with images of Hollywood glamour and style during the 1940’s. Articles written about the lives of famous people covered the pages of popular publications and advertisers relentlessly tried to tie in celebrities with the types of clothes they wore. Women, whether factory workers or a stay-at-home moms, aspired to look like the celebrities splashed across magazine pages and theater screens. Posters of well-known, gorgeous movie stars, such as Katharine Hepburn and Rita Hayworth, could be seen in homes across America. The emergence of celebrity news and style in magazines provided an unobtainable fantasy for women in America. Many clothes and products sold simply because a famous person reportedly used them. Much like today, advertisements led many to believe that, if they wore the same clothes or used the same products as stars, they too could look like stars.

CIVILIAN CLOTHING STYLES MIMICKED MILITARY UNIFORMS OF THE DAY

Women Ordnance Workers at Watershops picnic table

Whereas only a relatively small group of Americans served in the military during the First World War, over 21 million Americans served in America’s armed forces during the Second World War. Of the approximately 66 million American males of all ages living at that time, 1 out of every 3 was in the military. Men and women in uniform could be seen on every street and road.

As more and more American women entered the military or took civilian jobs in industry to carry on the work of men who had gone off to war, women wanted fashions that were less frilly and more suitable for work. They also wanted clothing styles similar to the uniforms worn by their men. In general, women’s clothing became uninteresting, practical, and restrained, but above all, functional. There was little adornment on the original items, because adornments required additional fabric and materials. But women frequently applied their accessories, like bows and fringe, in order to stand out in a crowd. Women’s blouses and jackets adopted the boxy, square shouldered look of the military uniform by stitching cheap shoulder pads into the fabric and women’s skirts maintained a uniformly short and straight look. Natural materials and fabrics, like wool and leather, were in short supply because the military had numerous uses for them. Hot items of the day included hats styled like U.S. Army uniform hats and berets.